The sun was going down and I'd just finished my second tub of hummus.
I felt tired but I just wanted one wave. A new swell was in the water but tomorrow was the day.
I paddled out at catfishshit reef, it's close to my house and can handle this size. I could see the outside bombie going off - One guy out. Legend.
I saw him go on a few big ones - Solid. Respect.
When he paddled past I looked away, I hate doing that but damn, it was Sideburns Barry. What a dilemma, he f*cking rips but man he's a clown. Rumour has it he kicked a cat.
Caught my wave. Went home. Ate more hummus.
— the stokefairy